On February 7-9, 1997, Walter Wells and Dexter Robinson tookthe International Mountain Climbing School's (IMCS) 3-day mountaineering course. The following is a brief summary of their experience.
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We were very fortunate to have three bright, sunny, and moderately cold days. The first day was devoted to learning various techniques of traveling on ice. After getting outfitted with plastic boots, crampons, ice axes, harnesses, and helmets, we drove from North Conway to a parking area off Rt. 302. After a short up-hill climb we entered one of the Willey slide areas. This spot had a great view back into Crawford Notch. Unfortunately much of the ice was buried under two feet of snow. After carving out an area we learned how to self-arrest, a technique of using an ice-ax to stop an accidental fall. We practiced this from a number of positions: face first on stomach, feet first on back, and head first on back. Next, we learned different ways of climbing/walking over ice with crampons. Finally, various belay techniques were introduced. Walt and I had a chance to try out a short belay up the slide.
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On the second day we were divided into three groups, with a leader assigned to every two people. After sorting and packing food and tent equipment we backpacked from Pinkham Notch to an area close to Harvard Cabin. We set up our 3-person tent and unloaded some of our gear. In the afternoon we hiked into Huntington Ravine to learn various techniques and skills for traveling over snow. Once again, we practiced self-arrest. This time, however, two enormous boulders lay at the bottom of the hill to "greet" anyone who could not stop! We learned various ways of anchoring to snow. During the afternoon the temperature dropped into the single numbers and was barely above zero when we returned to our camp. Appetizers and dinner were cooked in our tent using a butane/propane stove that hung from the ceiling. It warmed the inside air of the tent sufficiently to change clothes. Overnight the temperature dropped to about minus 15 degrees but we stayed cozy in winter sleeping bags.
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After breakfast in the tent, we prepared for a day hike to the summit of Mt. Washington. The Lion Head winter trail was quite steep in a few places at the bottom. The wind picked up considerably as we reached treeline. The direction of the wind made it nearly impossible to find shelter around the rocks at Lion Head. Dex lost his hat to the wind in the stretch above Lion Head. The final climb of the summit cone involved using the climbing techniques learned on Friday - taking many, many small steps. The effort to reach the summit was worth it. The views in all directions were spectacular. On the return trip we "glissaded" down parts of the east face of the summit cone (on our butts). It sure beat walking. The winds, however, near Lion Head, had now picked up, punching 60-65 mph. Snow was blowing in the bright late afternoon sun creating some interesting effects.We returned to camp, packed up the remainder of our gear and hiked back on the Tuckerman trail to Pinkham Notch.
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